Amtrak's Empire Builder

Did you ever want to take a nice long train ride?? Say from Chicago to maybe Seattle?? Well, it is a lot of fun! Train travel is a great way to see the beautiful US of A and is a nice alternative to flying and driving....you actually get to SEE the scenery....you can get up and move around when you want, you can use electronic devices (OK, so maybe have extra batteries...there aren't too many outlets! lol), you can almost always get something to eat, and you meet lots of fun people....PLUS, if you have a sleeper you get to actually SLEEP! And, you have the use of a shower....

Below is a review of a couple rides on the 'Builder' - both in coach and in a sleeper....yes, coach can be crowded-but sometimes, it isn't too bad and you will have 2 seats to yourself.....read on...ask away if you have questions.....

Amtrak's Empire Builder trains follow the route of Lewis and Clark through Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota, Montana, Idaho and Washington. This route provides beautiful scenery, quaint little towns and the chance to see all sorts of animal life, both wild and domestic, including numerous bald eagles. Some of the scenic highlights are the Wisconsin Dells, Mississippi River, the Rocky Mountains, Glacier National Park, the gateway to Mount Rainier and the Columbia River Gorge.

The "Builder" as it is affectionately referred to by some crew members, offers both coach and sleeper accommodations. These trains use bi-level Superliner coached with both upper and lower level seats. (You must book lower level seats in advance as there are only about a dozen or so.) Some coaches have a couple outlets here and there, but there are not plugs at every seat. The lounge car has a few outlets as well. These trains no longer show movies on board. You can either bring along a DVD player or rent one at some stations. Please use headphones and be considerate of others. Please, also put your cell phone on silent mode and do not sneak a smoke in the restrooms!

First, noise carries on the train and everyone around you is not interested in your calls or movies or music! EEK....PLUS, those sneaking smokes on the train-i have news for you-first, I can smell it almost anyplace, SECOND-it stinks up the ENTIRE train, don't think people won't smell it...and don't think they won't rat you out to the conductors...and THIRD-you will get removed! ALSO...if you get a little too DRUNK or unruly, you will be removed! Actually, it is kind of funny...some guy who probably weighed 250 or so was removed in Shelby. Shelby is NOT a big town...the conductor and the 2 cops shoved him down the stairs from the upper level, out the door and into a wheelchair. I asked the cops what they were going to do with him...they said they had no place to take him so he would sit at the jail til he sobered up! Amtrak DOES take the safety of the entire train seriously!

Meals in the full-service dining car are included with the fare for the sleepers. With Amtrak's "hot deals" internet specials, a seat from Chicago to Seattle can be obtained for about $95.00. Passengers can attempt to upgrade onboard the train to sleepers if available. Otherwise, fares are about $140 for a seat and $300 or more for sleepers-although sometimes you can find a great deal! Generally, the best prices are found in the winter months, up through the Easter season. The sleeping car fare is added to the coach fare, and is priced per sleeper, not per person. For example, if the fare is $150 per person, and the sleeper is an extra $200, then the total amount for the trip would be $500 for the two passengers.

During the winter, numerous people use the train to get to ski areas near Whitefish, Montana which can make for some big crowds. However; there are usually enough seats that a person can have 2 seats to themselves for at least part of the journey. Pillows are provided to coach passengers while blankets are not. The trains are generally maintained at a comfortable temperature. Other Amtrak routes however are either too cold or boiling hot. In any event, it is best to dress in layers.

Each coach is equipped with 4-5 restrooms. Usually, at least 2 of these are bigger, with some space for changing and freshening up. No showers are available for coach passengers. Each coach has an attendant whose responsibility is making sure you are safe and comfortable. One of the nice things they can do for you are to get you a full dinner from the dining car, that can be enjoyed at your seat. This is great for those who prefer to dine alone, or who are just too comfortable to get up! A couple of the attendants really spent a lot of time getting to know passengers (and one even snuck us out Key Lime Pie and COOKIES!)

Many stations offer checked baggage service. However, there are places to store bags on the lower level of the Superliner coaches. Smaller bags can be carried up the stairs (10 steps, sort of spiral fashion) and placed in the overhead racks or under the seats.

The train also has an observation/lounge car. If you are taking the train all the way, this car will disappear in Spokane, or be added there depending on whether you are going East to West or vice versa. The "builder" is actually 2 trains. Upon arrival in Spokane, the Westbound train splits and half goes to Portland, Oregon with the remainder continuing on to Seattle.
The Eastbound train joins together in Spokane and continues to Chicago.

The trains are nonsmoking; however, there are several "smoke stops" along the way. Some of them are quick; others are 20 minutes or more, depending on the on-timeliness of the trains. Most of these towns are very small. In fact, between Chicago and Everett, the stations offer no food other than vending machines. Thus, if you tire of train food and did not plan accordingly, you are out of luck! (Although if you happen to be awake in the middle of the night on arrival to Spokane, there is a little cafe in the station that opens...they have EVERYTHING...breakfast, Chinese food, a little of everything...and it is CHEAP! BUT you arrive about 1 or 2 AM depending on how close to on time you are!!)

The Sleepers provide an extra level of comfort. All meals are included, you get to use the Metropolitan Lounge in Chicago (there is also a lounge in Portland, but not Seattle), and there are showers for those in Roomettes, and other rooms that don't have a private shower.
The Roomettes are very tiny-barely big enough for two people. There are two seats facing each other, which convert to a single bed, and a pull-down for another bed. There is a little closet and two steps that double as "shelves". You really can only fit a small bag in the room. Also, there are a couple reading lights, a nightlight, a nice window and a tray table.

The rooms have bottled water, a route guide and other information. The rooms are on both levels of the sleeper cars. On the builder, there are two sets of sleepers, as the train splits in Spokane with the back half going south to Portland. In addition, on the upper level of the sleepers, near the stairs, there is a coffee station, as well as orange and apple juice. At night, you can find Oatmeal cookies!

Generally boarding for sleepers starts about 30 minutes prior to general boarding. The lounge in Chicago has snacks (pretzels and 'goldfish' and mini muffins during breakfast.) and soft drinks. I believe there is free wireless internet access, but they do not have computers like in the Club Acela at Washington, DC. You can check your bags and wander around the station. If you have enough time, you can see some of Chicago. The CTA visitors' passes for local "El" trains and buses are a bargain at $5.00 for a 1-day pass with unlimited rides. This fee is due to rise by the end of 2007! The CTA is a GREAT transit system, but they face HUGE cash problems and prices are going us a couple bucks here and there...for info see http://www.transitchicago.com

Back to the Builder. The sleeper attendants will introduce themselves, set up your bed, bring your meals to you if desired, and provide you with any other information of assistance as needed. Tipping is not required, nor is it expected, but it is appreciated. The Lead Dining Attendant will come through the train and take dinner reservations. Dinner fills up fast so be sure to be in your room to get a preferred time. They come to sleeper passengers first, then those in the coaches.

The sleeper cars were renovated several years back, but they still are in good shape. The bathrooms and shower were cleaner than I expected. The shower is small but there are a couple shelves and grab bars. There is a small dressing area and little bars of soap are provided. You will need your own shampoo, etc. Also, there are bath towels in the shower room. Hand towels and washcloths are in your closet.

As for the food, the dining car serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily although the day of arrival into Seattle, it is breakfast only and service runs from about 5:20 AM until 7 AM only. You can get pastry and coffee for a while longer but the crew has to do a lot of work in order to get the train ready to turn around for the trip home.
Breakfast in the diner runs between $6 and $9 and includes eggs, omelets, pancakes and French toast. All breakfasts come with juice and coffee, tea or milk. Breakfast meat is extra.

Lunch consists of burgers, chicken sandwiches and salads. Prices range from $8-$10. Sandwiches include a side of chips and various garnishes.
All meal service is community seating. If you are not a party of four, you will join other travelers. Breakfast and lunch are first come, first served but dinner is by reservation.
Dinner includes a half roasted chicken for $14.50, a steak for $21, a pasta dish for around $11, fish for $16, and a daily special which is $12.50. Generally, this item is ham steak, salmon shank, country fried steak or beef pot pie. (Can someone please tell me what the heck a salmon shank is?) The portions are big and include a salad, dinner roll and coffee, tea, milk or iced tea. Desserts are also available ranging from ice cream for $2.00 to key lime pie, which is about $3.50 and is quite good. The meals also include a starch: rice pilaf, baked or mashed potatoes and vegetable that was a broccoli spear and corn with kidney beans and some other vegetables as well.

The ham steak is a nice thick slice of meat, sometimes served with cherry sauce. Very filling. The salad was a nice array of mixed greens with a choice of several dressings. Again, if you ask the coach attendant, he or she can get you meals to go from the dining room. Also, the steak is not bad. Not the best quality, but certainly good enough. Again, if you are in a sleeper, your entire meal, including soft drinks but not wine, is included in the fare, so don't miss out!
Food in the snack car is standard fast food with higher than normal prices. Sodas are $1.75, beer, wine and cocktails range from $4-$12 (for a half bottle of wine), coffee and tea are also $1.75 (no refills officially, but sometimes the cafe attendant will give you a refill.)

Snacks include pizza, hot dogs, cheeseburger, chips, pretzels, cookies, etc. Prices are about $3.75 to $6.00. For breakfast, cold cereal, bagels, cinnamon buns, breakfast sandwiches and muffins are available.
If you are riding in coach, rather than spend a fortune buying food on the train, why not bring some with you? Again, plan accordingly. Either bring things that don't need refrigeration or bring along a cooler. Peanut butter is a good choice; they even sell peanut butter and jelly in the same jar. Bring along a loaf of bread and you are all set. You can buy those "cup-o-noodle" things for less than 50 cents in the grocery store. They cost $1.50 or $1.75 on the train. You can get hot water and ice for free so bring your own soup! Fruit, crackers, chips, granola bars, etc. are all good choices.

In Chicago, the station has a large number of food stands to choose from, so why not pick up a nice big sandwich and have that later instead of dining on the train. In Seattle, there is nothing in the station, so pick up something before you get there. Everett has a small coffee place and they have a small selection of pre made sandwiches and salads. You can walk about 3 or 4 blocks on Broadway (go out the front of the station, walk 1-2 blocks up the hill to Broadway, turn right and keep walking) and there are several fast food places and a grocery store. You could even pick up some roasted or fried chicken at the store and eat that later.

If you bring a cooler, your options are greater as you can keep stuff cold. With a little planning, you can really do well. Of course, eating on the train is fun, but remember that unless you have a sleeper, it is extra. It's funny, in Shelby, MT there is a Chinese place across the tracks that the crew will often visit. They won't let you go out the other side of the train for safety reasons, and they probably would not want you to walk all the way around as you may get trapped by a freight train, but if you are there long enough and are friendly enough with a crew person, maybe you could talk them into getting you some wonton soup!

Bring lots to read and things to do. The ride is very beautiful and you should spend some time in the lounge car looking out the big windows. It's also a great way to meet fellow passengers and to perhaps make new friends. All sorts of people from all walks of life travel by rail. You are bound to meet someone who shares your interests and you will probably find some additional "entertainment." Lots of passengers bring DVD players and laptops. But, depending on the actual cars being used, outlets are at a premium! The sleepers all have an outlet, but they way it is set up, those bug, box-like plugs probably will not fit. You may want to bring an extension cord.

You can rent digEplayers at the station, and sometimes on the train! The cost varies, but it's $20-30 depending on the length of the trip. Actually, although quantities are limited, it was cheaper to get them on the train!
During summer months, National Park Service personnel are sometimes on the train to offer narration about the passing scenery, which is just gorgeous! Lots of wildlife, rolling hills, flat plains, mountains, and, of course, freight trains! Making the rounds and talking to fellow passengers, especially at meals, is lots of fun and a big reason so many people travel by train. You would be surprised at the number of people who travel with scanners to listen in to the communications on the train! And, there are ALWAYS people at the stations taking pictures of the various engines and cars! Rail fans are everywhere!

Sleeping car passengers will be invited to a wine and cheese. The wines were all from Washington state, and most were pretty good! Also, there is a trivia contest and you can win the extra wine-the bottles are the open, leftover wines from the tasting, but free is good!

The trip from Chicago to Seattle takes 44 hours so make sure to factor this in to your travel plans. If you are in a hurry, train travel isn't for you because you are at the liberty of the freight trains who own the tracks. Thus, you may have delays. Or, you may even arrive early. Go figure. In any event, sit back and relax. Sure, you can get there faster by plane. Yes, sometimes connecting trains are late. But everyone should do this at least once! Allow yourself extra travel days just in case your train from say, the east coast, is too late into Chicago! Amtrak will get you there somehow. Sometimes, they will bus you to catch up with the train, sometimes people are flown to the next destination. Other times, you get housed in a hotel with money for meals and cabs. But usually, there's sufficient time built into the schedules so you will make it!
In any event, enjoy the trip, make some friends and get away from the hustle and bustle of real life on the Empire Builder.

Again, the train is LOTS of fun if you have the time.....There are so many people who are bug rail fans-lots of them travel with their own radio/train scanner things....some even have GPS. You can get to know the crew too..the conductors and engineers change several times during the trip. But, your train attendant and dining car/snack car people stay the same...one of the snack car people and i chatted often...mainly when i went down in the AM for hot water to make tea and instant oatmeal! One day as he was going back to work after dinner, he dropped off a piece of strawberry cheesecake for me! That was super nice, and Amtrak got a nice letter!

Well....that's about it for the Empire Builder.....I've also ridden the Capital Limited from DC to Chicago, the City of New Orleans, the Lake Shore Limited (which can provide its own type of entertainment since they stop someplace near Rochester iirc and ICE agents come aboard looking for people who may be of questionable residency status! LOL...on more than one occasion at least 2 people were escorted off!) I also took a short trip across FLA from Tampa to Ft Lauderdale...the train was going to be PACKED so i got a sleeper for part of the trip...had my own toilet in the sleeper..that was a little wacky...and I got to have lunch..and be AWAY FROM ALL THE CROWDS!)

If you have time to waste in Chicago you can hop on a bus (i think it is the 151) that goes from Union Station to Michigan Ave...a couple blocks away...I think on Rush-is a small Jewel Osco (you can ask the location of a grocery store if you pop into a hotel-that's what I did! I got off the bus by Eddie Bauer-kind of near the Marriott. Anyway....the Jewel has a deli counter and hot items...so I would get a piece or 2 of fried chicken, some fruit, etc and have a little picnic on the train! Also, they sell individual oatmeal containers and the train will (most likely) give you free hot water! Hitting a grocery is much cheaper than eating on the train or in the station.....BUT Union Station in Chicago has a couple great places..there is a BBQ place that is terrific, and a Corner Bakery that has good breakfast stuff and sandwiches (there is another one outside around the corner too
toodle ooo for a while